Anarsa

Anarsa is the Diwali sweet and the one that defeats people. Rice is soaked for three days with the water changed daily, drained, dried in shade, and ground; the flour is then worked with jaggery and left to sit for another few days, during which it ferments faintly and changes character entirely. Only then can it be shaped — pressed into flat discs, one face pushed into poppy or sesame seeds, and lowered seed-side down into ghee, where it must not be turned or moved for a long minute or it collapses. What comes out is crisp at the rim, chewy in the middle, faintly sour behind the sweetness from the resting. Gaya makes the khoya-filled version. The reason it is bought more often than made is that the whole thing takes the better part of a week before any cooking happens, and there is no way to shorten it.

Anarsa
Zone: Gangetic Heartland
SOURCE: Adapted from Today’s Fresh, an identified Bihari sweet-maker shipping from Gaya — anarsa in both the plain and khoya-filled forms, rice-flour based and sesame-coated (English-language regional vendor)
LOCAL NAME: अनरसा
Servings 6 people
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS 

METHOD 

  • Soak the rice in plenty of water for three days, changing the water every morning.
  • Drain, spread on a cloth, and dry in the shade until damp but not wet. Do not dry it in the sun or on a radiator.
  • Grind to a fine flour and sieve.
  • Mix the flour with the grated jaggery and the 3 tbsp ghee, working it with your hands until it comes together into a heavy dough. Add a spoon of milk only if it will not hold.
  • Cover and leave at room temperature for three days. It will darken, soften and take on a faint sour smell. This is the fermentation the sweet depends on.
  • On the day, add the cardamom and knead briefly.
  • Spread the poppy or sesame seeds on a plate.
  • Take a walnut of dough, flatten it into a disc about 6mm thick, and press one face firmly into the seeds.
  • Heat ghee in a shallow pan to a low-moderate heat.
  • Slide the anarsa in seed-side down and do not move it for a full minute. Spoon hot ghee over the top instead.
  • Once the base is set and golden, turn it once and cook briefly on the other side.
  • Lift out and drain on a rack. Cool completely before eating; it firms as it cools.
Start Cooking

NOTES

UK adaptation: Any short-grain white rice, soaked and ground yourself — packet rice flour will not ferment and gives a hard flat anarsa. White poppy seeds (khus khus) from a South Asian grocer, or sesame, which is easier to find and traditional in some districts. Block gur, grated. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Short-grain rice, soaked and ground at home. White poppy seeds and jaggery from Patel Brothers or an Indian grocery. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: Do not touch it once it goes into the ghee — lower it seed-side down and leave it completely still for a full minute before you even think about moving it, spooning hot ghee over the top instead. Anarsa disintegrates the moment it is disturbed early, and no amount of care afterwards recovers it.
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