Tingmo is a cloud dumpling, or that is what the name is usually taken to mean: tinga for cloud and momo for dumpling. It is a yeasted wheat dough rolled thin, folded into layers, twisted and steamed until it opens out like something between a flower and a fist, and it is deliberately plain. There is nothing inside it, because the moment you put something inside it stops being tingmo and becomes a momo. Its job is to be torn apart and pushed through whatever else is on the table, a chilli potato, a stew, a bowl of shaptak, and to carry the sauce. Anything left over gets halved and fried in a pan the next morning, which is a better breakfast than the fresh version, and eaten with sweet milk tea.

INGREDIENTS
- 400 g plain flour
- 1.5 tsp instant yeast
- 1 tsp sugar
- ½ tsp salt
- 240 ml warm water
- 1 tbsp vegetable oil (plus more for brushing)
METHOD
- Mix the flour, yeast, sugar and salt in a bowl. Add the water and oil and bring together into a dough.
- Knead for 10 minutes until smooth and elastic, then cover and leave in a warm place for an hour, until doubled.
- Knock the dough back and divide it in two. Keep one half covered.
- Roll the first piece into a rectangle about 3mm thick. Brush it lightly with oil.
- Fold the left quarter in and the right quarter in so the edges meet in the middle, then fold one side over the other to give a narrow strip four layers thick.
- Turn it ninety degrees and cut into six equal pieces. Stack them in pairs, giving three buns of eight layers each.
- Press a chopstick down firmly through the centre of each bun so the layers splay out at the sides, then lift it out.
- Pick the bun up by both ends, stretch it gently to about a third longer, twist it twice, and tuck the ends underneath, pressing to seal.
- Repeat with the second piece of dough. Set the buns on squares of baking paper in a steamer, cover, and leave to proof for 30 minutes.
- Steam over simmering water for 20 to 25 minutes, without lifting the lid, until firm and springy. Serve hot.