Phapar ko Roti

Phapar ko roti is buckwheat, and the Thakali of Thak Khola call it ghoken. Buckwheat is not a grain at all but the seed of a broadleaved plant, and it will crop on thin poor soil at altitudes where wheat and rice simply refuse, which is the entire reason this bread exists. For a long time it carried the reputation of a poor household, cheaper than rice and eaten because nothing better would grow. That has gone into reverse, and the flour now sells at a premium for being gluten free and high in protein. The batter is loose enough to pour, and the roti comes out earthy with a faint citrus note behind it, crisp at the rim and soft through the middle. It is eaten at any hour with dal, a curry or an achar, and buying good flour matters more than technique: it should be pale grey and smell nutty rather than dusty.

Phapar ko Roti
Zone: Tibetan Sphere
Servings 4 people
Prep Time 15 minutes
Cook Time 20 minutes

INGREDIENTS 

  • 250 g buckwheat flour
  • 400 ml water
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 3 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil (for the pan)

METHOD 

  • Put the buckwheat flour and salt in a large bowl.
  • Add the water a little at a time, whisking as you go, until you have a smooth batter thin enough to pour. It should coat the back of a spoon and run off freely.
  • Whisk it hard for a minute to knock out any lumps, then leave it to rest for 10 minutes.
  • Heat a non-stick or well-seasoned frying pan over a medium heat for a couple of minutes, then brush it with a little ghee.
  • Pour in a ladleful of batter and tilt the pan to spread it thin and even.
  • Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the surface has set and the edge is lifting and browning.
  • Slide a spatula under and turn it, then cook the second side for a further minute or two until flecked with gold.
  • Stack them under a cloth as you go and serve warm with dal, a curry or an achar.

NOTES

UK adaptation: Buckwheat flour from any health food shop, large supermarket or online. Buy plain buckwheat flour rather than a self-raising blend, and look for a pale grey colour and a nutty smell, since stale buckwheat flour turns dusty and flat. Naturally gluten free provided it is milled in a gluten free facility. A non-stick or well-seasoned pan makes this far easier, as buckwheat has no gluten to hold the roti together while you turn it. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Buckwheat flour from a natural foods store, a supermarket baking aisle or online; plain rather than a pancake blend. A non-stick pan is worth using here. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: Rest the batter for ten minutes before you cook. Buckwheat has no gluten, so the flour needs that time to take up water properly, and a batter cooked straight away comes out gritty and tears when you turn it. Get the pan properly hot before the first one goes in and accept that it will be the worst of the batch.

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