Kewa Datshi

The potato is a newcomer here and was not welcome at first. It reached Bhutan in the late eighteenth century and for a long time the Bhutanese would not eat it, holding that it upset the stomach, so it was grown almost entirely for export across the border. That reluctance has gone completely. Kewa is potato, and kewa datshi is now the dish a household cooks when it wants the comfort of ema datshi without the fight, sliced thin and cooked down in the same cheese and chilli liquid until the starch thickens the sauce around it. It is the version put in front of children and visitors, so reliably the gentle introduction to this pantry that Bhutanese cooks half-jokingly call it the foreigner’s delight, and it is eaten over red rice or alongside steamed buns from a farmhouse kitchen to a monastery table.

Kewa Datshi
Zone: Tibetan Sphere
Servings 4 people
Prep Time 15 minutes
Cook Time 25 minutes

INGREDIENTS 

  • 600 g waxy potatoes (peeled and sliced 5mm thick)
  • 1 medium onion (sliced)
  • 4 long green chillies (slit lengthways)
  • 3 garlic cloves (sliced)
  • 1 small tomato (cut into wedges)
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 300 ml water
  • 120 g feta (rinsed and crumbled)
  • 2 slices processed cheese
  • a few coriander leaves (to finish)

METHOD 

  • Put the potatoes, onion, chillies, garlic, tomato, butter, salt and water in a wide pan. The water should just come level with the potatoes.
  • Bring to a boil, then cover and cook on a medium heat for 15 minutes, until a knife slides into a potato slice with only slight resistance.
  • Scatter the feta over and lay the cheese slices on top. Cover and cook on the lowest heat for 5 minutes without stirring.
  • Fold gently, two or three passes only, until the melted cheese and the starchy liquid come together into a sauce that clings to the slices. Add a splash of hot water if it has tightened too far.
  • Scatter the coriander over and serve with red rice or steamed buns.

NOTES

UK adaptation: Waxy potatoes such as Charlotte or Maris Peer hold their shape best; floury potatoes collapse into mash. Soft chhurpi is the real thing if you can get it, sold by Nepali and Tibetan grocers and by the UK Nepali online grocers listed below, though stock is not dependable. Order online rather than hunting shelves: mainstream South Asian grocers stock Nepali items inconsistently at best. UK Nepali grocers deliver nationwide, including Nepalese Centre, Nepal Foods Online, Your Kathmandu and 977 Grocery. Otherwise crumble 120g feta rinsed under cold water, plus two slices of processed cheese for the melt, which is the substitution Bhutanese and Darjeeling cooks recommend themselves. Long green finger chillies from any South Asian grocer. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Yukon Gold or red potatoes hold their shape best. Soft chhurpi from a Himalayan or Nepali grocer if you have one nearby; otherwise rinsed feta plus two slices of American cheese. Anaheim chillies for bulk, one serrano for heat. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: Slice the potatoes thin and start them in the water rather than frying them first, because the starch they release is what thickens the sauce. Stop the cooking while the slices still hold their edges, since a minute too long turns the whole pan to mash.

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