Chana Bhuja

Bhuja is what comes out of the bhad. The roasting stove dug into the ground, the bhunjwa working it, the households carrying their grain to him and taking a share back — the same arrangement that produces sattu also produces this, and in Bhagalpur it is the black chana that goes in. The grain is buried in sand heated to a temperature nobody measures, turned with a flat blade until the skins tighten and split and the insides go dry and nutty, then sieved out. No oil touches it at any point. What you get is a snack that keeps for weeks in a tin, costs almost nothing, travels, and has fed the eastern plain between meals for as long as anyone can account for. Sold on trains, in paper cones at bus stands, mixed with puffed rice and mustard oil and raw onion for anyone who wants it turned into a meal. It is the least glamorous food in this zone and probably the most eaten.

Chana Bhuja
Zone: Gangetic Heartland
SOURCE: Adapted from Bazaar Mantri’s Bhagalpuri chana bhuja, an identified Bihari regional-foods seller — whole black chana dry-roasted with the skin on over a slow flame until crisp (English-language regional vendor)
LOCAL NAME: चना भूजा
Servings 4 people
Prep Time 10 minutes
Cook Time 25 minutes

INGREDIENTS 

METHOD 

  • If roasting your own, dry the soaked chana completely on a cloth — any surface water will steam them instead of roasting them.
  • Heat a heavy dry pan over medium-low heat with no fat in it.
  • Add the chana and roast for 20 to 25 minutes, shaking and turning constantly, until the skins tighten and split and the insides are dry and crisp right through.
  • Test one. It should snap, not bend. Cool completely.
  • Toss the roasted chana with the puffed rice in a wide bowl.
  • Add the onion, green chillies, black salt, salt, chilli powder and roasted cumin.
  • Pour over the raw mustard oil and turn everything through with your hands until coated.
  • Finish with lemon juice and coriander and serve at once in paper cones or small bowls, before the puffed rice softens.
Start Cooking

NOTES

UK adaptation: Roasted black chana is sold ready-made at South Asian grocers as bhuna chana or roasted gram — buy it with the skins on rather than the split yellow kind. If you want to roast your own, dried black chana and a heavy pan of clean sand does the job, though a dry cast-iron pan gets close enough. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Roasted chana with skins from Patel Brothers or an Indian grocery. Dried black chana if roasting your own. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: Roast the chana dry, with no oil in the pan at any stage — the mustard oil goes on raw at the end, off the heat, and it is that raw pungency against the toasted grain that makes the dish. Oil in the pan gives you something fried and dull instead.
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