Zaw

Zaw is what a Bhutanese house offers you before anything else. A bowl of it goes to guests, to travellers coming off the road, and to anyone who turns up, and families keep a store of it for exactly that reason. It is made from Bhutan’s heirloom red rice, grown in terraced fields high in the Paro, Punakha and Wangdue valleys and semi-milled so it keeps its ruddy colour and its nutty edge. The rice is soaked overnight, dried, then dry-roasted in a hot pan until the grains puff and go crisp, which began as a way of making rice keep and carry on long journeys. The usual way to eat it is to tip a scoop into a cup of butter tea, where it floats on the surface like the foam on a cappuccino and stays crunchy while you drink underneath it. A little butter and sugar stirred through turns it into something closer to a sweet.

Zaw
Zone: Tibetan Sphere
Servings 6 people
Prep Time 15 minutes
Cook Time 25 minutes

INGREDIENTS 

  • 300 g Bhutanese red rice (or short grain brown rice)
  • cold water (for soaking)
  • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • butter and sugar (to serve (optional))

METHOD 

  • Put the rice in a large bowl, cover generously with cold water and leave to soak overnight or for at least 8 hours.
  • Drain through a sieve, then spread the rice out on a clean cloth or tea towel and leave for an hour, until the surface of the grains is dry to the touch.
  • Toss the dried rice with the oil and the salt so every grain is lightly coated.
  • Heat a heavy dry pan over a medium to high heat until it is properly hot.
  • Add a single layer of rice, no more than a handful or two, and stir constantly with a wooden spoon.
  • After 4 to 6 minutes the grains will start to crack, puff and turn a shade darker. Keep them moving until they are crisp and golden, then tip them out onto a tray.
  • Repeat with the rest of the rice in batches, letting the pan come back to heat between each.
  • Cool completely and store airtight. Serve in a bowl with tea, or tipped by the scoop onto butter tea, or stirred with a little butter and sugar.

NOTES

UK adaptation: Bhutanese red rice is sold online and by some health food shops and is worth using, since the colour and the nuttiness are the point. Short or medium grain brown rice is the workable substitute; long grain basmati is not, as the grains are too slender to puff well. The rice must be surface-dry before it goes in the pan, so allow an hour spread on a cloth after draining. A heavy pan holds heat better and gives a more even puff. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Bhutanese red rice online, or Himalayan red rice from a natural foods store. Short or medium grain brown rice substitutes; do not use long grain. Spread the soaked rice on a towel to dry before roasting. A cast iron pan works best. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: The rice has to be dry on the outside before it meets the pan, or it steams instead of puffing and you get chewy grains that never crisp. Roast in small batches and keep the grains moving the entire time, since they go from golden to burnt faster than seems fair.

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