In Mithila this is dal dulhan, dal’s bride, and the name is about the shape: wheat dough rolled thin, cut small, and pressed with the thumb into a curl or a flower before it goes into the pot. The dumplings cook inside the dal itself rather than beside it, which thickens the whole thing with the flour they give up, so what starts as arhar dal ends as something between a soup and a stew. It is a winter dish and a late-evening dish, made when the house wants one pot rather than three, and the tempering goes in at the end rather than the beginning — ghee, garlic, cumin and dried chilli poured over the top so it hits hot dal and releases everything at once. Bihar makes it for the cold; Mithila makes it for company.

INGREDIENTS
- 200 g arhar dal (toor dal, rinsed)
- 1.2 litres water
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 1 tsp salt (for the dal)
- 200 g chapati flour (atta)
- ½ tsp salt (for the dough)
- ½ tsp carom seeds (ajwain)
- water (to knead)
- 2 tbsp ghee
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 8 garlic cloves (sliced)
- 3 dried red chillies
- 1 small onion (finely sliced)
- ¼ tsp asafoetida
- 1 tsp red chilli powder
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- a handful of coriander leaves (chopped)
METHOD
- Boil the dal with the water, turmeric and salt until soft but not collapsed, about 25 minutes in a pan or two whistles in a pressure cooker.
- Meanwhile knead the flour with the salt, carom seeds and water into a firm dough. Rest it 15 minutes.
- Roll the dough thin and cut into small squares about 3cm across. Press each in the centre with your thumb so the edges curl up.
- Bring the dal to a hard rolling boil and loosen it with water if it has tightened; it needs room for the dumplings.
- Drop in the pithi a few at a time. Do not stir for two minutes, then stir gently once.
- Simmer 10 to 12 minutes until the dumplings are cooked through and the dal has thickened around them.
- Heat the ghee in a small pan. Add the cumin, then the garlic and dried chillies, and fry until the garlic is deep gold.
- Add the onion and fry until browned at the edges, then take off the heat and stir in the asafoetida and chilli powder.
- Pour the tempering over the pot, stir once, and finish with lemon juice and coriander. Serve hot in bowls.