Khagina is spiced scrambled eggs, and the spice that makes it Sindhi rather than generically South Asian is asafoetida: a firm pinch in the hot oil before the eggs go in, so that the hing flavour is already in the fat when the eggs scramble into it. Tomato, green chilli and cumin round out the base. It is breakfast stall and dhaba food — made on a large flat tawa in quantities for the morning rush, scooped into a bowl with a roti and eaten at speed before the day starts. It is the Sindhi working morning, and it costs almost nothing to make. The asafoetida is not optional; without it, this is just spiced eggs.
Zone: Indus Plains
SOURCE: Sindhi breakfast stall, Karachi, recipe documented 2021
LOCAL NAME: خاگینہ
INGREDIENTS
- 6 large eggs
- ¼ tsp asafoetida (hing)
- 2 medium onions (finely chopped)
- 2 medium tomatoes (finely chopped)
- 2 green chillies (finely chopped)
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- ½ tsp turmeric
- ½ tsp red chilli powder
- 1 tsp salt
- 3 tbsp neutral oil or ghee
- 2 tbsp fresh coriander (chopped)
METHOD
- Heat the oil in a wide, heavy pan or tawa over medium-high heat until shimmering.
- Add the asafoetida — it should sizzle immediately. Add the cumin seeds and let them pop, 20 seconds.
- Add the onions and fry until soft and lightly golden, 4–5 minutes.
- Add the tomatoes, green chillies, turmeric, red chilli and salt. Cook until the tomatoes have broken down and the oil separates, 4–5 minutes.
- Crack the eggs directly into the pan. Let them sit for 30 seconds until the edges begin to set, then scramble gently with a spatula, folding through the masala in slow movements.
- Cook for 2–3 minutes until the eggs are just set — they should be in soft, irregular folds, not dry. Remove from heat while still slightly underdone; residual heat finishes them.
- Scatter with fresh coriander and serve immediately with fresh roti or chapati.
NOTES
UK adaptation: Eggs, tomatoes, green chilli. Asafoetida from any South Asian grocer. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Eggs. Asafoetida from Indian grocery stores. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: The asafoetida must go into hot fat before any other ingredient — it needs direct heat to bloom. Add it to cool or warm oil and it contributes almost nothing.
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