Dal pakwan is the Sindhi breakfast that defines a community — chana dal brought to a slow simmer until just breaking, eaten with pakwan, a crisp fried flatbread with no leavening and no compromise. Three chutneys come alongside: tamarind for sourness, fresh coriander and coconut for cooling, and a red chilli chutney for those who know what they want. The coconut chutney is what separates the Sindhi version from anything adjacent; it is the detail that matters. The pakwan must shatter, not bend. The dal must be broken down but not smooth. It is a Sunday morning dish in Sindhi households from Karachi to Leicester, the meal that takes all morning and repays the effort.
Zone: Indus Plains
SOURCE: Adapted from The Karachi Kitchen by Kausar Ahmed (Interlink Books, 2017), her family dal pakwan with all three chutneys
LOCAL NAME: دال پکوان
INGREDIENTS
- 300 g chana dal (split chickpeas, soaked 2 hours)
- 1 litre water
- 1 tsp turmeric
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 2 green chillies (slit)
- 1½ tsp salt
- 1 tbsp ghee
- For the pakwan: 2 cups plain (maida flour)
- 1 tsp ajwain (carom seeds)
- ½ tsp cumin seeds
- ½ tsp salt
- 2 tbsp ghee or oil
- water to knead (add sparingly)
- neutral oil for deep-frying
- For the coconut chutney: 4 tbsp fresh or desiccated coconut
- 1 small bunch coriander
- 2 green chillies
- ½ tsp salt (juice of ½ lemon)
- For the tamarind chutney: 3 tbsp tamarind paste
- 1 tbsp jaggery or sugar
- ½ tsp roasted cumin powder
- ½ tsp black salt
METHOD
- Cook the soaked chana dal with the water, turmeric and 1 tsp salt for 30–35 minutes until the dal is soft but holds its shape. Mash a ladleful against the side and stir back in to thicken. In a small pan heat the ghee, add the cumin seeds and green chillies, sizzle 30 seconds, pour over the dal. Adjust salt.
- For the pakwan: mix the flour, ajwain, cumin and salt. Rub in the ghee to a crumb. Add water a tablespoon at a time to form a stiff dough — stiffer than roti dough. Knead 5 minutes. Rest 15 minutes. Divide into balls, roll thin (about 3mm), prick all over with a fork. Deep-fry in medium-hot oil, pressing gently to keep submerged, until crisp and pale gold, 3–4 minutes. Drain on a rack.
- For the coconut chutney: blend the coconut, coriander, green chilli, salt and lemon with a little water to a coarse paste.
- For the tamarind chutney: stir the tamarind with jaggery, cumin and black salt; thin with a little water.
- Serve the warm dal in bowls, the crisp pakwan alongside, chutneys in separate dishes.
NOTES
UK adaptation: Chana dal from any South Asian grocer or the world-food aisle. Desiccated coconut works in the chutney where fresh is unavailable. Ajwain (carom seeds) from any South Asian grocer — they are what make the pakwan the pakwan, not decoration. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Chana dal from Patel Brothers or H-Mart. Fresh coconut from Latin American or Asian grocery stores; desiccated is a workable substitute. Ajwain from Indian grocery stores. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: The pakwan crisps as it cools, so do not judge it while still hot. Drain on a rack rather than paper so the base stays dry and the crunch holds.
Cook this differently? Share your family’s version — or tell us what we’re missing.
Contribute