Aubergine

baingan · begun

The vegetable that tastes best a little burnt.

What it is

Aubergine is the glossy purple vegetable (begun in Bengal, baingan in the north) with a soft, absorbent flesh that takes on smoke and spice beautifully. Charred whole, it becomes the smoky mash of bharta; sliced and fried, it soaks up a sauce. Small and large varieties suit different dishes.

Where it comes from

Native to the region (unlike so many of its everyday vegetables), aubergine is used across the subcontinent, charred for bharta in the north, fried as begun bhaja in Bengal, simmered into tangy dishes in the west.

What it's called

Aubergine · baingan (Hindi) · begun (Bengali) · brinjal / eggplant.

In the kitchen

Charred whole over a flame until collapsing, then mashed with onion and spice for a smoky bharta; sliced, salted and fried as begun bhaja; or cubed and simmered into gravies. Its flesh absorbs oil and flavour readily: the smoke of a charred aubergine is the whole point of bharta.

What we know about the claims

A wholesome low-calorie vegetable with fibre; it does absorb oil, so fried preparations are richer. No caution.

Choosing and buying

Everywhere. Choose firm, glossy, heavy aubergines; small ones for stuffing and frying, large for bharta.