Narenj is the bitter orange, and narenj palau is the celebration rice built on its peel. The peel is shredded fine, dried, then boiled three times to draw out the bitterness, the last time with saffron and sugar, and tossed in oil with pistachios, almonds and cardamom before it is spread over parboiled basmati and steamed. With that much work in the peel it is a rice for weddings and guests, not for a weekday. It is usually cooked in meat broth or served with meat; this version keeps the rice vegetarian, and Afghan kebabs on the side bring the meat back. Start the peel the day before.
Zone: Silk Road Table
INGREDIENTS
- peel of 4 oranges (Seville if you can get them)
- water (for boiling the peel)
- good pinch of saffron threads (about ¼ tsp)
- 2 tbsp sugar
- 2 tbsp oil (for the nuts and peel)
- 35 g shelled pistachios (slivered)
- 35 g blanched almonds (slivered)
- ½ tsp ground green cardamom
- 400 g basmati rice
- 1.5 litres water (for the rice)
- 2 tsp salt
- 3 tbsp oil (for the pot)
METHOD
- Peel the oranges and use a vegetable peeler or small knife to remove as much white pith as possible. Slice the peel into thin strips, spread on a baking tray and dry in the oven on its lowest setting for 2 hours. Leave out on the counter overnight.
- Cover the peel with about 500ml water, bring to the boil and drain. Repeat twice more.
- For the last boil, crush the saffron with the sugar, add it to the peel with fresh water, bring to the boil and strain.
- Heat 2 tbsp oil in a frying pan, add the peel, pistachios, almonds and cardamom and cook over a medium-low heat for 3 minutes. Set aside.
- Soak and rinse the rice.
- Bring the 1.5 litres of water to the boil with the salt, add the rice and cook for about 5 minutes, until just tender at the edges and firm in the centre. Drain.
- Oil the base of a clean heavy pot, add the rice and spread the orange and nut mixture over the top and around the sides. Poke a few holes down through the rice with the handle of a wooden spoon.
- Cover with a sheet of kitchen paper and the lid. Cook over a medium-high heat for 3 to 4 minutes, then turn to medium-low for 20 minutes.
NOTES
UK adaptation: Seville oranges in January and February give the sharpest peel; ordinary oranges work the rest of the year. Dried bitter orange peel from Iranian grocers saves the drying step; soak it before the first boil. Aged basmati such as Aahu Barah from Afghan or Iranian grocers, or any good basmati. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Seville oranges in winter, or navel oranges. Dried bitter orange peel and Aahu Barah basmati from Persian or Afghan grocers. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: Strip off as much pith as you can before drying the peel, and do all three boils. Each one takes more bitterness out; skip one and the rice tastes of pith.
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