Aush is the noodle soup Afghans make when the weather turns cold, and it comes in three parts: a broth of vegetables and noodles, a spiced minced-meat sauce, and a sharp garlic yoghurt with dried mint, the last two spooned on at the table. Here the noodles cook straight in the soup, the old way, so their starch thickens the broth. Lemon goes into both the soup and the yoghurt sauce. Yoghurt made at home in Afghanistan is far sourer than anything sold in a supermarket, and lemon is how families cooking abroad bring that sharpness back. Make the meat sauce first. It keeps, and any left over freezes well.
Zone: Silk Road Table
INGREDIENTS
- 60 ml ghee or olive oil (for the meat sauce)
- 2 small onions (chopped, for the meat sauce)
- 2 tbsp minced garlic (for the meat sauce)
- 1 tbsp minced ginger (for the meat sauce)
- 1 tbsp tomato purée (for the meat sauce)
- 450 g lamb mince
- 450 g beef mince
- 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder (for the meat sauce)
- 1 tsp ground turmeric (for the meat sauce)
- 1½ tsp sumac (for the meat sauce (optional))
- 2 tsp ground coriander (for the meat sauce)
- 400 g tin chopped tomatoes (for the meat sauce)
- 4 tbsp chopped fresh coriander (for the meat sauce)
- 750 g whole-milk yoghurt (for the yoghurt sauce)
- zest of 1 lemon
- 1 tbsp lemon juice (for the yoghurt sauce)
- 1 tbsp garlic paste
- 1 tbsp dried mint
- 1 tsp salt (for the yoghurt sauce)
- 60 ml olive oil or ghee (for the soup)
- 1 large onion (chopped, for the soup)
- 1-2 green chillies (sliced)
- 2 tbsp minced garlic (for the soup)
- 2 tbsp minced ginger (for the soup)
- 2 tbsp tomato purée (for the soup)
- 6 celery sticks (chopped)
- 2 carrots (finely diced)
- 1 turnip (finely diced (optional))
- 1 tbsp ground turmeric (for the soup)
- 1 tbsp ground coriander (for the soup)
- 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder (for the soup)
- 1 tsp sumac (for the soup)
- 400 g tin chopped tomatoes (for the soup)
- 2 litres boiling water (plus more if needed)
- 340 g aush noodles (broken into thirds)
- 250 g whole-milk yoghurt (for the soup)
- juice of 1-2 lemons (about 60ml, for the soup)
- 30 g baby spinach
- 15 g fresh coriander (chopped, for the soup)
- small handful of fresh mint (torn)
- small handful of fresh dill (chopped)
- salt and black pepper
METHOD
- For the meat sauce, heat the ghee and cook the onions with a pinch of salt and some pepper for about 5 minutes, until glassy. Lower the heat, add the garlic and ginger for a minute, then the tomato purée for a minute more without letting it burn.
- Add both minces, breaking them up, then the chilli powder, turmeric, sumac, coriander, 1 tsp salt and more pepper. Cook for about 5 minutes until no longer raw. Add the tomatoes and simmer for about 8 minutes until they break down. Stir in the fresh coriander.
- For the yoghurt sauce, mix the yoghurt, lemon zest and juice, garlic paste, dried mint and salt. Chill for at least an hour.
- For the soup, heat the oil in a large pot over a medium-high heat and cook the onion with a pinch of salt for about 5 minutes. Lower to medium, add the chillies for a minute, then the garlic and ginger for 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for a minute until it darkens.
- Add the celery, carrots, turnip, turmeric, coriander, chilli powder, sumac and 2 tsp salt and stir for a minute. Add the tomatoes, then the boiling water, and bring to the boil.
- Add the noodles straight to the pot, with more boiling water if needed to cover. Bring back to the boil, stirring often, then simmer for about 10 minutes until the noodles are soft.
- Take off the heat and stir in the yoghurt, lemon juice, spinach, coriander, mint and dill. Taste for salt.
- Serve in bowls topped with meat sauce and yoghurt sauce, with the rest of both on the table.
NOTES
UK adaptation: Afghan aush noodles, such as Sadaf, from Afghan or Iranian grocers; udon or fettuccine work too. Kashmiri chilli powder from any South Asian grocer. Sumac from most supermarkets. For a clearer broth, boil the noodles separately until just past al dente, drain and stir them in. Lamb and beef mince from any butcher. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Sadaf aush noodles from Persian or Afghan grocers, or udon or fettuccine. Kashmiri chile powder from Patel Brothers. Whole-milk yogurt. Ground lamb and ground beef. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: Make the yoghurt sauce at least an hour ahead, or the day before. Rested, the garlic and mint carry right through it and the sauce sharpens.
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