Dhido

Dhido is older than rice in these hills and it is not a porridge. Finger millet or maize flour is beaten into boiling water with a firke, a wooden whisk turned between the palms, and worked hard against the side of the pan until it stops being a batter and becomes a single stiff, glossy mass that pulls away clean. It is served as a mound and eaten in pinched pieces pressed into whatever soup is on the table, swallowed rather than chewed. For a long time it carried the same stigma as gundruk, the food of a house with no rice, and both have since been reclaimed and now appear on Kathmandu menus at prices that would astonish the grandmothers who cooked them out of necessity. Finger millet grows where paddy will not, which is the entire reason the hills eat this and the plains do not.

Dhido
Zone: Tibetan Sphere
Servings 4 people
Prep Time 5 minutes
Cook Time 20 minutes

INGREDIENTS 

  • 150 g finger millet flour (ragi)
  • 100 g fine maize flour
  • 900 ml water
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 1 tsp ghee (for the serving spoon)

METHOD 

  • Bring the water and salt to a rolling boil in a heavy pan.
  • Sprinkle in a small handful of the mixed flours and let it cook for a minute without stirring, which stops the rest from sticking to the base.
  • Add a third of the remaining flour and beat hard with a wooden spoon or firke, pressing the mixture against the side of the pan and turning it over itself, until no dry flour is visible.
  • Repeat with the second and third portions. The mass will go from loose and sticky to firm and glossy, and after about 12 minutes of beating it will pull away from the sides of the pan in one piece.
  • Lower the heat, cover and leave for 3 minutes.
  • Wet a serving spoon with the ghee, scoop the dhido out in a single mound and serve at once with gundruk ko jhol or sisnu. It stiffens as it cools, so it does not wait.

NOTES

UK adaptation: Finger millet flour is sold as ragi flour or ragi atta at any South Asian grocer and is the same grain as kodo. Buckwheat flour makes the version eaten higher up. Fine maize flour, sold as makai ko pitho or as fine polenta, is the other correct choice and is often mixed half and half with the millet. A firke is not necessary; a stout wooden spoon and a heavy pan will do it. Everything else widely available.
US adaptation: Ragi flour, sold as finger millet flour, from an Indian grocery or a natural foods store. Fine cornmeal, not coarse polenta, for the maize version. A sturdy wooden spoon stands in for the firke. Everything else widely available.
Cook’s note: The pan must stay on the heat the entire time you are beating, because dhido cooks as you work it and a pan taken off the flame gives you raw flour paste. Add the flour in three stages and beat each one out completely before the next goes in, or it will lump and no amount of later beating will save it.

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