Paneer

Indian fresh cheese

Milk, set firm and unbothered by the fire.

What it is

Paneer is a fresh cheese made by curdling hot milk with an acid (lemon or vinegar), then draining and pressing the curds. It does not melt when cooked, which is its whole trick: it holds its shape in a hot gravy or on a grill, staying firm while it soaks up flavour. Its own taste is mild and milky.

Where it comes from

Paneer is made across the northern subcontinent, a staple of vegetarian cooking there. Its unpressed, softer cousin (chhena) is the foundation of the great Bengali sweets, the same fresh curd put to an entirely different purpose.

What it's called

Paneer · fresh acid-set cheese. The soft, unpressed form is chhena (Bengali), the base of sandesh and rosogolla.

In the kitchen

Cubed into rich Mughal-style gravies (a korma, a makhani), skewered and grilled, crumbled into stuffings, always as a firm, flavour-absorbing body rather than a melting cheese. Fry or grill it lightly first for colour, or add it late so it stays tender.

What we know about the claims

Paneer is a good vegetarian protein and, being fresh and unaged, is lower in salt than most cheeses, but it is still a whole-milk product, rich in fat. A sound everyday food eaten sensibly.

Choosing and buying

Sold fresh or vacuum-packed in supermarkets and South Asian grocers (UK and US), or made at home in half an hour from milk and lemon. Fresh, home-made paneer is softer and better.