Sliced aubergine rubbed with turmeric and salt, fried in mustard oil until the outside crisps and the inside collapses into silk — begun bhaja is the side dish that appears on every Bengali rice plate.
It requires five ingredients and ten minutes. Its quality depends entirely on the mustard oil and the patience not to move it in the pan.
Zone: River Delta
SOURCE: Bengali household cookbook, Kolkata, 1994. Translated from Bengali.
LOCAL NAME: বেগুন ভাজা
INGREDIENTS
- 1 large aubergine (cut into 1cm rounds)
- 0.5 teaspoons turmeric
- 1 teaspoons salt
- 0.5 teaspoons chilli powder
- 4 tablespoons mustard oil
METHOD
- Season the aubergine: Lay the aubergine rounds on a plate. Sprinkle both sides with the turmeric, salt, and chilli powder. Press lightly so the spices adhere. Set aside for 10 minutes — the salt will begin to draw out moisture.
- Heat the oil: Heat the mustard oil in a heavy cast iron or steel pan over medium-high heat until it just begins to smoke. The oil must be very hot before the aubergine goes in — this is what creates the crust.
- Fry without moving: Lay the aubergine slices in the pan in a single layer. Do not move them. Fry for 3–4 minutes until the underside is deep brown and the edges are beginning to crisp. Flip once and fry for a further 2–3 minutes. The interior should be completely soft and collapsed, the exterior dark and almost lacquered.
- Serve immediately: Lift out with a slotted spatula and drain briefly on kitchen paper. Serve immediately as part of a Bengali rice plate alongside dal and rice. Begun bhaja does not keep — it must be eaten the moment it comes out of the pan.
NOTES
UK: Standard supermarket aubergine works well — larger varieties fry better than thin Asian types. Mustard oil from South Asian grocers. A cast iron or heavy steel pan gives the best crust. Do not use non-stick.
US: Globe eggplant from any supermarket. Italian eggplant also works well. Mustard oil from Patel Brothers or Amazon. Cast iron preferred for frying.