River Delta

Recipes from West Bengal, Bangladesh, and the Assam fringe. A mustard-forward fish and rice civilisation – panch phoron, hilsa, date palm jaggery, and the bitter-sweet balance that defines Bengali cooking on both sides of the border. For the pantry behind it — what to buy, where to find it, and why these dishes work — read the River Delta zone guide.

Bengali mutton biryani — Kolkata biryani with mutton, egg and potato, River Delta
River Delta

Bengali Mutton Biryani

The biryani that arrived in Kolkata with a deposed Nawab and never left — distinguished from all others by the boiled potato inside, the lighter spice hand, and the kewra water that perfumes the finished dum.

Daab chingri — prawns in mustard-coconut paste steamed inside a green coconut, River Delta
River Delta

Daab Chingri

Chingri Malai Curry
Large prawns braised in thin coconut milk with whole spices — the everyday luxury of the Bengal coast, cooked in twenty minutes and served over white rice.

Kosha mangsho — mutton slow-fried without water to a dark sticky gravy, River Delta
River Delta

Kosha Mangsho

Slow-fried mutton cooked without water until the fat renders and a sticky, deeply spiced paste coats every piece — the feast dish of the Bengali Hindu household, made for Durga Puja and for homecomings.

Shatkora mangsho — Sylheti mutton curry with bitter shatkora citrus, River Delta
River Delta

Shatkora Mangsho

Excerpt:
Slow-braised beef with the fiercely aromatic rind of shatkora — the Sylheti citrus that every Bangladeshi restaurant in Britain uses too sparingly and almost never gets right.

Shorshe ilish — hilsa steamed in yellow mustard paste over rice, River Delta
River Delta

Shorshe Ilish

Shorshe Ilish
Hilsa steamed in a sharp yellow mustard paste — the dish Bengal waits all year for, ready in thirty minutes and impossible to improve.

Fish tenga — Assamese sour fish curry with elephant apple, River Delta
River Delta

Fish Tenga

Fish Tenga
A pale, broth-like sour fish curry built around elephant apple and tomato — the defining dish of the Assamese table, made to cool the body in the monsoon heat.

Begun bhaja — aubergine slices fried crisp in mustard oil, Bengali rice-plate side, River Delta
River Delta

Begun Bhaja

Begun Bhaja
Aubergine rounds fried in mustard oil until the outside lacquers dark and the inside collapses into silk — five ingredients, ten minutes, no improvement possible.

Chingri malai curry — prawns braised in coconut milk, Bengal coast, River Delta
River Delta

Chingri Malai Curry

Chingri Malai Curry
Large prawns braised in thin coconut milk with whole spices — the everyday luxury of the Bengal coast, cooked in twenty minutes and served over white rice.

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