The Pantry / Tutti-frutti
Tutti-frutti
candied papaya
Little jewels of candied papaya on a festive plate.
What it is
Tutti-frutti here means candied raw papaya — firm green papaya cut into tiny cubes, candied in sugar syrup and dyed bright colours. It is a confectionery decoration, chewy and sweet, valued as much for its colour as its taste. Not the Italian gelato it borrows its name from.
Where it comes from
It belongs to the region's sweets and bakery — festive rice, sweet breads, cakes and ice creams — an inexpensive, cheerful way to add colour and sweet bite. It scatters through a zarda, the sweet saffron rice of the Mughal Corridor.
What it's called
Tutti-frutti · candied papaya. Locally a bakery and sweet-shop staple.
In the kitchen
Folded into zarda and sweet rice, studded through bakery breads (the pink-flecked ones), and stirred into ice creams and cakes for colour and chewy sweetness. Added for decoration and texture rather than deep flavour. A festive, cheerful garnish.
What we know about the claims
It is candied fruit — sugar and, usually, added colour — so enjoy it as the sweet decoration it is. No caution beyond that.
Choosing and buying
Sold in South Asian grocers and bakery-supply shops (UK and US); inexpensive and long-keeping. Easy to spot by its bright colours.