Asafoetida

Ferula assa-foetida · hing

Foul in the jar, transformed in the pan — the ghost of onion and garlic.

What it is

Asafoetida is a dried gum-resin tapped from the root of a giant fennel relative. Raw, it is startling — sharply sulphurous, almost acrid. In hot oil, a pinch transforms utterly, mellowing into a savoury, allium-like depth that stands in for onion and garlic. Sold mostly as a compounded yellow powder, cut with flour.

Where it comes from

The plant grows in Afghanistan and Iran, from where the resin has been traded into the subcontinent for centuries. In India it became indispensable to cooking that avoids onion and garlic — much Jain, Brahmin and temple food — which is one key to its role.

What it's called

Asafoetida · hing (Hindi). Botanically the resin of Ferula species.

In the kitchen

A pinch goes into hot oil at the start of a tempering, where it blooms and loses its rawness — in dals, vegetable dishes and pickles, adding a rounded savoury base. Because it does the work of onion and garlic, it is essential to the cooking that leaves those out. It is used in the smallest amounts.

What we know about the claims

Asafoetida has a long folk-reputation as a digestive and anti-flatulent, with some preliminary study; in the pinches used it is a flavouring, so treat the health talk lightly. One practical note: the common compounded powder is cut with wheat flour, so it is not gluten-free unless labelled pure.

Choosing and buying

Sold as compounded powder (and, dearer, as pure resin) in South Asian grocers (UK and US) — a small tub lasts a very long time. Keep it sealed, or it perfumes the whole cupboard.